مُرّی. ← آبکامه . [ م َ / م ِ ] (اِ مرکب ) نان خورشی و نوعی از گوارشن بوده است بطعم ترش ، وآن را از نان خشک گندم یا جو که در آب خیسانده و مدتی برای تخمیر در آفتاب مینهاده اند حاصل کنند، و گاهی پودنه و تخم کرفس و دارچینی و قرنفل و ابازیر دیگربر آن می افزایند. و یک قسم آن را از ماست و شیر و تخم سپند و خمیر خشک و سرکه میکرده اند، و آبکامه را برای تجارت از شهری بشهری نیز میبرده اند. مُری . کامه .کومه . و معرب آن کامَخ : و از وی [ از مرو] پنبه ٔ نیک و اشترغاز و فلاته و سرکه و آبکامه و جامه های قزین و ملحم خیزد. (حدودالعالم ). گاوپای گفت خواجه را لذت آبکامه دامن گیر شده ، کنیزک را گفت از همسایه آبکامه بخواه ، کنیزک بخانه ٔ همسایه رفت و گفت خواجه ٔ من میفرماید که این سُکره را آبکامه پر کن ، همسایه گفت نمانده است . (روضةالعقول ). و ترتیب سرای توو لذت ریچار تو معلوم ، مگر خواجه ٔ من بنده ٔ تو از آبکامه ٔ شما خورده است . (روضةالعقول ). آن کنیزک دیگر تای نان سپید باضافت کامه برد و گفت هرگاه که آبکامه بایست باشد بی اعلام خاتون مرا بگوی تا به اسعاف رسانم ، کنیزک با نان و کامه در خدمت خواجه رفت . (روضةالعقول ). || آش و یخنی ترش . || آش ترخانه . آش بازرگان . || گوارشن . هاضوم .

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مری‌. بپارسی آبکامه بخاری گویند و بآبکامه رقیق گویند آنچه از جو سازند گرم و خشک بود تا سئوم و گویند گرم است در اول و خشک است در دویم اخلاط غلیظ بریزاند و نشف بلغم بکند و بوی دهان خوش کند و ریشها عفن را نافع بود و درد ورک و عرق النسا و رطوبت معده در حقنه‌های قولنج کنند نافع بود و گزندگی سگ دیوانه را نافع بود و رازی گوید مری عمل نمک کند الا از وی الطف بود و اقوی و شکم براند و قطع لزوجات کند و ملطف اغذیه غلیظ و معطش و مسخن معده و جگر بود و مجفف آن و چون بناشتا اندکی بیاشامند کرم بکشد و اگر در چشم کسی کشند که وی را آبله بنیاد کرده باشد هیچ در چشم وی برنیاید و اگر برآمده باشد بگدازاند و چون بدان غرغره کنند جذب بلغم بسیار بکند از دماغ و حنک و ورم نغاتغ پاک کند چون منفجر شده باشد

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صاحب مخزن الادویه می‌نویسد: مری بضم میم لغت عربیست مشتق از بعضی مراره و گفته‌اند اصل آن ممری بدو میم بوده که برای تجفیف یک میم را حذف کرده‌اند و نیز گفته‌اند اسم نبطی است و بسریانی اوریا موریا و برومی کولوغورس نامند و در ماهیت از ادویه قدیمه است که از آرد جو و فوتنج و نمک و رازیانه و دیگر ادویه ساخته می‌شود

اختیارات بدیعی

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آبکامه: نان خورشی است که از ماست، شیر، تخم سپندان، خمیر خشک شده و سرکه سازند و آن را به عربی «مری» خوانند. (تنویر ص 77).

یادگار

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به آذری قاروم:

Qarum - Qədim Romada yeməklərin dadlandırılması üçün istifadə edilmiş yemək sousu. Balıq sousu olaraq bilinən qarumun cinsi aktivliyi yüksəldən afrodizyak tərkibli olduğu ehtimal edilməkdədir. Qədim Romada daha geniş yayılmasına baxmayaraq, qarumdan Qədim Yunanıstanda da istifadə edilmişdir. Əsasən tuna və ilan balqılarının daxili orqanlarının duzlanması ilə hazırlanan qaruma şərab, sirkə, qara istiot, yağ və duz kimi əlavələr edilirdi. Qarum təkcə yeməklərin hazırlanmasında yox eyni zamanda dərman və dərinin cavan saxlanılması üçündə istifadə edilmişdir.

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به ترکی گاروم:

Garum, Antik Roma döneminde yemeklerde kullanılan bir tür balık sosudur. Afrodizyak etkisi olduğuna inanılırdı. Roma'da daha yaygın olmasına rağmen Antik Yunanistan'dan gelmiştir.

Daha çok Tuna balığı, yılan balığı gibi balıkların iç organlarının tuzlanmasıyla yapılırdı. Şarap, sirke,karabiber, yağ ve su gibi katkılarda kullanılırdı. Genel olarak yemeklerde kullanılmasının yanına ilaç olarak veya kozmetik amaçlı da kullanılmıştır.

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به عبری:

גארוּ‏ם (בלטינית: Garum, מיוונית עתיקה: γάρον, גָ‏רוֹ‏ן; בתלמוד מופיע בשם אוקסיגרון, אכסיגורין או איקסגורין וידוע גם כמורייס או מורייסא) היה ציר דגים שהיווה את התבלין המרכזי במטבח הרומי. הוא מוכר כבר מתקופת יוון העתיקה ונעלם לחלוטין מהמתכונים רק במאה ה-11.

Garum

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Ruins of a garum factory in Baelo Claudia inSpain.

Garum was a fermented fish sauce used as a condiment^[1] in the cuisines ofancient Greece, Rome, and Byzantium. Liquamen was a similar preparation, and at times the two were synonymous. Although it enjoyed its greatest popularity in the Roman world, the sauce was earlier used by the Greeks.

The Romans thought the Latin word garum derived from the Greek garos, a fish from which it was supposed to have been originally made, but this fish-name is unattested in classical Greek.^[2] It is believed to be the ancestor of the fermented anchovy sauce Colatura di Alici which is still produced today inCampania, Italy.^[3]

Contents

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Manufacture[edit]

Garum factory in Portugal

Composition of garum

What is called liquamen is thus made: the intestines of fish are thrown into a vessel, and are salted; and small fish, especially atherinae, or small mullets, ormaenae, or lycostomi, or any small fish, are all salted in the same manner; and they are seasoned in the sun, and frequently turned; and when they have been seasoned in the heat, the garum is thus taken from them. A small basket of close texture is laid in the vessel filled with the small fish already mentioned, and the garum will flow into the basket; and they take up what has been percolated through the basket, which is called liquamen; and the remainder of the feculence is made into allec.

– Geōponika: Agricultural pursuits, Vol. II, pp. 299-300; translated from the Greek by Thomas Owen; London 1806.

Garum fish paste was prepared from theblood and intestines of fish through the process of autolysis. Fishermen would lay out their catch according to the type and part of the fish, allowing makers to pick the exact ingredients they wanted.^[4] The fish parts were then macerated in salt, and cured in the sun for one to three months. The mixture fermented and liquified in the dry warmth, with the salt inhibiting the common agents of decay.

Garum was the clear liquid that formed on the top, drawn off by means of a fine strainer inserted into the fermenting vessel. The sediment or sludge that remained wasallec.^[5] Concentrated decoctions of aromatic herbs might be added. Flavors would vary according to the locale, with ingredients sometimes from in-house gardens.^[4][6]

The end product was very nutritious, retaining a high amount of protein and amino acids, along with a good deal of minerals and B vitamins.^[7]

Economic role[edit]

Garum jugs from Pompeii

The manufacture and export of garum was an element of the prosperity of coastal Greek emporiafrom the Ligurian coast of Gaul to the coast of Hispania Baetica, and perhaps an impetus for Roman penetration of these coastal regions.^[8] Amphorae recovered from shipwreck sites off Ansérune andAgde bear the traces of the garum they contained and date as early as the 5th century BC.^{[citation needed]} In the ruins of Pompeii, jars were even found containing kosher garum,^[9]suggesting an equal popularity among Roman Jews.

Each port had its own traditional recipe, but by the time of Augustus, Romans considered the best to be garum from Cartagena and Gades in Baetica. This product was called garum sociorum, "garum of the allies".^[8] The ruins of a garum factory remain at the Baetian site of Baelo Claudia (in present-dayTarifa) and Carteia (San Roque). Garum was a major export product from Hispania to Rome, and gained the towns a certain amount of prestige. The garum of Lusitania (in present-day Portugal) was also highly prized in Rome, and was shipped directly from the harbour of Lacobriga (Lagos). A former Roman garum factory can be visited in the Baixa area of central Lisbon.^[10] Fossae Marianae in southern Gaul, located on the southern tip of present-day France, served as a distribution hub for Western Europe, including Gaul, Germania, and Roman Britain.^[11]

Umbricius Scaurus' production of garum was key to the economy of Pompeii. The factories where garum was produced in Pompeii have not been uncovered, perhaps indicating that they lay outside the walls of the city. The production of garum created such unpleasant smells that factories were generally relegated to the outskirts of cities. In 2008, archaeologists used the residue from garum found in containers in Pompeii to confirm the August date of the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. The garum had been made entirely of bogues, fish that congregate in the summer months.^[12]

Cuisine[edit]

Mosaic depicting a "Flower of Garum" jug with a titulus reading "from the workshop of [the garum importer Aulus Umbricius] Scaurus"^[13]

Like the modern fermented soy product soy sauce, fermented garum is rich in the natural amino acid monosodium glutamate, a source of umami flavoring.^[14] It was used along withmurri to give an umami flavor to dishes.^[15]

Garum was produced in various grades consumed by all social classes. After the liquidgarum was ladled off of the top of the mixture, the remains of the fish, called allec or alec, was used by the poorest classes to flavour their staple porridge or farinata. The finished product—the nobile garum of Martial's epigram^[16]—was apparently mild and subtle in flavor. The best garum fetched extraordinarily high prices,^[17] and salt could be substituted for a simpler dish. Garum appears in most of the recipes featured in the Roman cookbookApicius.

In the 1st century AD, liquamen was a sauce distinct from garum, as indicated throughout the Corpus Inscriptionum Latinarum IV. By the 5th century or earlier, however, liquamen had come to refer to garum.^[5] The available evidence suggests that the sauce was typically made by crushing the innards of (fatty) pelagic fishes, particularly anchovies, but also sprats,sardines, mackerel or tuna, and then fermenting them in brine.^{[18][19][20][21]} In most survivingtituli picti inscribed on amphorae, where the fish ingredient is shown, the fish is mackerel.^[5]

When mixed with wine (oenogarum, a popular Byzantine sauce), vinegar, black pepper, oroil, garum enhances the flavor of a wide variety of dishes, including boiled veal and steamed mussels, even pear-and-honey soufflé. Diluted with water (hydrogarum) it was distributed toRoman legions. Pliny (d. 79) remarked in his Natural History that it could be diluted to the colour of honey wine and drunk.^[22]

Social aspects[edit]

The taste for garum had a social dimension that might be compared to an aversion to garlic in some modern Western societies, or to the adoption of fish sauce in Vietnamese cuisine (called nước mắm there).^[5] Seneca, holding the old-fashioned line against the expensive craze, cautioned against it, even though his family was from Baetian Corduba:

Do you not realize that garum sociorum, that expensive bloody mass of decayed fish, consumes the stomach with its salted putrefaction?

— Seneca, Epistle 95.

A surviving fragment of Plato Comicus speaks of "putrid garum". Martial congratulates a friend on keeping up amorous advances to a girl who had indulged in six helpings of it.^[5]

Garum was also employed as a medicine. It was thought to be one of the best cures for many ailments, including dog bites, dysentery, and ulcers, and to ease chronic diarrhea and treat constipation. Garum was even used as an ingredient in cosmetics and for removal of unwanted hair and freckles.^[7]

Research by Cambridge University's Piers Mitchell, a biological anthropologist who studies the evolution of disease throughout history, suggests that garum may have helped spread fish tapeworms across Europe.^[23]

Khollan Vafa : اخوان صفا

۱۳۹۵ خرداد ۲۹, شنبه

مُرّی، آبکامه، قاروم

Garum

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